Jared’s final stop was Goa – a laid back, European vacation spot full of speedos and thongs. We rented mo-peds to check out the northern beaches and avoid getting too burnt by the beachside. 
Goa, India January 9, 2009
Mumbai (aka Bombay) January 9, 2009
On the train to Mumbai, we were surrounded by english speaking Indian families and young “IT” guys in Levis and flip flops. Stepping out of the train station felt like we entered London; the streets were full of double decker buses, matching taxi cabs and professionals. We walked to breakfast among men in business suits and women in professional Salwr Kameez (long shirt and pants combo). Around Colaba, the architecture of the Victoria Terminus Train Station and Bombay University resemble 19th century British architecture.
We walked along the Back Bay via Marine Drive to see the vendors on Chowpatty Beach and the wealth of Malabar Hill. From Karmala Nehru Park, we could see how Bombay lined the Arabian Sea from lush, jugly forests to looming sky scrapers. The Governer of Maharashtra State has prime real estate at the tip of the peninsula that is Mumbai.
We could only see the Gateway of India and The Taj hotel through scaffoldings and wooden windows – scars of the terrorist attack’s destruction. It seems incongruent that the terrorists appeared to be targeting foreigners at two sites important to India’s independence and pride: The Taj hotel was built by a wealthy India to spite the British who would not allow a “native” in their hotels and the Gateway which was built upon the British’s arrival to India was also the gate they left through.
The best part of the day was visiting the Mahatma Gandhi museum at Mani Bhavan. Through Gandhi’s method of Satyagraha (truth and non-violence) India succesfully freed themselves from British rule. Starting in South Africa in 1843 when Gandhi was kiched out of a “white” train car, Gandhi commited his life to relieving oppression. In India, Gandhi encouraged peaceful protests against British rule. The Civil Disobedience Movement of 1930 was marked by the Salt March – a 26 day, 241 mile march to the sea which succesfully abolished the British Salt Act. Gandhi gained national and international respect for his commitment to equality.
Despite his non-violence commitment Gandhi was shot and killed in 1947. He was quoted perviously saying, “If I am to die by the bullet of a mad man, I must do so smiling, there must be no anger within me.” The end of the exhibit stated: “he was the victorious one in death as in life” – he died saluting his assassin.
No Bombay experience can be complete without Bollywood. We ended up seeing an American movie (all the Bollywood flicks are in Hindi) including the Indian National Anthem with the previews and a mandatory 5 minute intermission.
Jaipur, India January 9, 2009
Rajasthan, the “Lord of the Kings,” in the northwest is where India and the Middle East combine. The rocky desert terrain of the state resembles its neighbor, Pakistan. In the capitol city of Jaipur, evidence of the ancient warrior clans and feudal lords still exists through walled fortresses that watch over the city. The streets are packed with the usual vendors and vehicles along with free-roaming cows, goats and camels. Jaipur’s inhabitants span between fully veiled women and turbaned men to jeans and t-shirts. The infamous ‘pink city’ in Jaipur is literally a 10 block x 10 block city sector that is painted entirely pink.
The many Rajputs (warrior clans claimed to originate from sun, moon and fire) built kingdoms to defend their family and their honor. Outside of the city is Amber Fort, one of the many walled palatial complexes in the desert which houses a small community of crumbling houses and a fortress within a long, winding gate.
For an hour, we climbed and descended numerous windy stairwells passing through the Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) inlaid with millions of mirrored tiles that glitter under the candlelight; the Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure) with cool water passing through; and the Zenana (women’s quarters) where the Rajput zig-zagged through the labyrinthe to find his woman of choice.
Recontruction of the palace is slowly underway…
To end the day, we hiked up to the Nahargarn fort to watch the polluted sunset as the final muslim call to prayer rang through the city’s speakers.
Taj Mahal, Agra, India January 9, 2009
We fought the fog en route to Agra and arrived six hours late to see the Taj Mahal. Agra felt worlds more peaceful than Varanasi. We cruised tree lined streets that were wide, paved and well organized. From a distant rooftop, we saw the Taj Mahal encapsulated in northern India’s constant winter haze.
The immaculate Taj Mahal was built in 1653 as a memorial to Emperor Shah Jahan’s second wife, Mumtaz Mahal who died while giving birth to their 14th child. After 22 years, 20,000 workers and ~$70 million, the heart broken Emperor completed “the most extravagant monument ever completed for love.” The main dome and minaret tops slightly resemble tear drops falling from the sky. Sadly, we arrived to the Taj Mahal the one day a week it is closed so we had to sneak around to the back to snap our pics.
Varanasi, India January 9, 2009
On New Year’s morning, we rolled across the vast Ganges River into Varanasi. The holy water of the river along with being the birth place of the god Shiva makes Varanasi th oldest andholiest Hindu city. By Hindu tradition, beings have a better chance of being reborn in a higher caste/life if their remains are thrown in to the Ganges. The caste system is still apparent in India. Those born in lower castes are believed to deserve their plight because they behaved poorly in their past life – those in higher castes lived a more pious previous life. As a result of this belief, Hindus from all over throw the ashes of their loved ones from the Ghats (ie stairs) of the Ganges to assure a better rebirth.
After the train, we zipped through the narrow Varanasi streets past kids bathing in the gutters; women in full Bukhas; cows; goats; bicycles; motorcycles; red, blue, yellow, pink, purple saris; yelling men; endless honking horns and fearless drivers. In case you were wondering, a contry with a billion people squished into a nation 1/3 the size of the US does indeed feel crowded.
Emerging on to the banks of the Ganges, we saw the infamous Ganges and the sacred rituals being performed below the Ghats. The Ghats were built hundreds of years ago by wealthy families who built stairs from their private residences to clense in the river. The old mansions still watch over the river but the Ghats are now public and filled with bathers and worshippers.
In two specific spots, families build wood fires and burn the wrapped corpses of their family members. 2-3 hours and ~$60 in fees later, the deceased’s ashes are thrown in to the water.
We rounded up a local tour guide who walked us down to one of the main Ghats; two fires were smoldering, one a flame with feet sticking out the end of the wood pile. We hopped a b0at and were rowed past two of the 84 Ghats.
Entire groups of people were washing themselves and relatives in the river to absolve their sins.
A drum band happily played music by the crematorium – our guide explained that this was a way for these low caste members to achieve a better rebirth.
Even cows were soaking…they were also in search of a better life.
High above the cleansing, kites soared through the afternoon sky in preparation for the Jauary 14th Kite flying competition.
