Punakha, Bhutan December 30, 2008

Bright and early, we started the windy drive to Punakha.  Since Bhutanese roads have an average of 17 curves/km and a nation wide speed limit of 30km/hr, driving consumes a lot of our day.   Coming  up over Dochula Pass at 10,200 feet, we saw our first clear, breathtaking  view of the Himalayan border between Bhutan and Tibet. 

As a result of Bhutan’s deep respect for nature, the country houses the tallest unclimbed peak in the world: Gangkarpunsum.   The Bhutanese believethe mountain’s snow capped peaks reaching 24,750 feet are to remain untouched.

Winding down into the lush, jungly Punakha valley, we hiked past many Bhutanese practicing the national sport: archery.  An average archery ‘court’ in Bhutan is 150 meters – a football field and a half.

We also got a briefing on “pig food” which is the Marijuana that grows wild in Bhutan and is fed to pigs to guarantee they sleep all day and grow fat.

At the Punakha Dzong, reputed to be the most beautiful in the country, we file into a long line of formally dressed Bhutanese. 

(I don’t know how to  turn the images yet!)

Today is a special day.  The Avalakiteshvaran Buddha’s reincarnate is out for display.  Buddhas and commoners alike are bowing and praying in the central courtyard toward the inch tall mini Buddha that was formed within a human vertebral column.  The Minister ofCultural Affairs is present to make sure the showing goes smoothly. 

After looking at the mini reincarnate, we awkwardly receive holy water and little beans to drink and rub on our heads to clense us… purification tastes horrible.  Leaving the Dzong, Pasang helos the   head Lama figure out how to check the missed calls onhis cell phone.

Tiger’s Nest, Bhutan December 29, 2008

I woke early to the chorus of hundreds of dogs barking at the rising sun.  In all of Bhutan, dogs roam free but they are not strays…everyone contributes to fattening up their furry friends.  Tourism in  Bhutan is not capped as previously assumed, it is just well regulated.  All visitors must pay a steep $200/person/day for an all-inclusive tour including  guide, transport, room and board. 

First on  our guide Pasang’s agenda: Tiger’s Nest Buddhist Monastery.    This monastery, which is one of the three monasteries Buddhists are required to make pilgrimage to, barely hangs on to the side of a 2,500 foot cliff.

 After a three hour hike in, we reach the temple we learn about the many forms Buddha takes and monks’ lifetime commitment to achieve nirvana.  Surrounding the monastery are many smaller temples where monks spend three years doing nothing but meditating…not a bad location considering the view and gentle rumble from the many waterfalls.  Much to Mom’s delight, Pasang posed with his cell phone to show tradition clashing with technology.

Pasang explained to us the untouched landscape of Bhutan: the government requires that ~70%  of the country stay forested; no building projects are approved that jeopardize this  percentage and lumbar used fo r building must be taken from specific loc ations.

For dinner, we were invited to the  tour company owner’s house.   We heard the amazing story of Sunam’s (the owners) determination.  Raised in a village that is only accessible after a three day hike, she begged her parents to go to school instead of follwoing the normal path of marriage and children at a young age.  After bording school in India and a full ride to University in Florida, she returned to Bhutan where she married and enjoys the company of American travelers…not bad for growing up in a village that still has no electricity.

Shangri-La – Bhutan December 29, 2008

On Christmas morning after being delayed by the blinding smog in Kathmandu,  we took off for Bhutan.  Even at cruising altitude, the  Himalaya Mountains poked out above the clouds and appeared to be just below us.  Everest looked as though it could touch our wing.  Bhutan is a country almost entirely of mountains, the story goes that the border of Bhutan is where a rock rolling down the mountain stops.   The airport is located in the widest valley, Paro, which required windy manuevering to get to.  After the plane sped up and took a final 90 degree turn, we apruptly landed the runway is too short for a cushy landing. 

Once we landed,  it was understood why the last Himalaya Kingdom is also called ‘the last Shangri-La’.  The landscape is dramatic yet graceful with rolling jungly hills growing into distant snow capped peaks. 

All houses are white with “Bhutanese style” windows and doors of dark wood trim ornately painted.  The rumors about Grosse National Happiness are true; the king uses ‘GNH’ to measure  development proects  and progress in terms of society’s greater good.  Pre-1960, Bhutan had no national currency, no TVs, no radio and very little external contact.  Pre-1974,  Bhutan had no tourists. 

The mountainsides are decorated with white prayer flags scripted with the Buddhist Mantra to pray for the dead and colored flags specific to astrological signs fly for good luck.   All flags stay hanging until the wind carries their words away. 

After visiting the Paro Dzong (Temple), we drug our jet lagged bodies back to our hotel.

Bhaktapur, Nepal December 24, 2008

We crammed eight of us into two VW rabbit sized taxis and headed out of town to the medieval city of Bhaktapur.  The ~15 km drive took almost an hour since every car attempted to out-smart the system by making their own lane.  Built around the fourteenth century, Bhaktapur is still closed to cars and keeps up wood carving, painting and pottery traditions.

I attempted to be tour guide only to be voted off in exchange for a local college student.  One temple had intricate carvings of the 24 Kama Sutra positions, don’t worry Jared got a pic of each one.

We visited a Thanka painting school where artists spend their lifetimes perfecting intricate paintings using as few as one bristle brushes.  Most paintings center on Nirvana with heaven above and hell below showing the process of enlightenment.

I lasted three whole days without getting sick and am toady taking it easy…hopefully figuring out how to upload my own photos instead of stealing Google image’s.

Swayambhunath, Kathmandu December 24, 2008

We wove through the streets of Kathmandu up to the peaceful Swayambhunath Stupa, atop one of the surrounding mountains.

This temple used for worshiping and pilgrimages mixes Hindu and Buddhist traditions, much like Nepal.  The eyes looking out are painted on all four sides of the tower to watch over the capitol.  The eyes are those of Buddha (who was born in Nepal), the nose = the Nepali number one symbolizing the unity of all life and the “third eye” is a symbol of Buddha’s insight.

The temple had smaller temples representing each of the elements.  Also, two smaller pagodas worshiping Saraswati, the goddess of learning, where students pray before tests and Hariti, the goddess of small pox and fertility (strange pair) which was surrounded by women beautifully dressed in red saris offering incense and flowers in hopes of good fertility.

Kathmandu, Nepal December 24, 2008

After three days of overnight flights, a three hour delay in Delhi and losing Nico’s bag, we made it to Kathmandu!

 

We got our bearings the first day, scanning the streets lined with tapestries, knock-off climbing gear and Nepalese art.  Due to Nepal’s energy crisis, we chase the lights lokoing for food and fun depending on which sector of the city is in a mandatory black out or not.